Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
